I busted this one out of the archives folks 😉 Even though this image is years old it still has relevance today. Doing makeup on mature skin is still one of the major areas that I have to teach each of my makeup artists when they come to work for our team. Anyone can slap some dark eyeshadow on a non-sagging, non-crinkled face of a 19 year old and call it a day. Of course she is going to look amazing, she barely went through puberty. The real challenge is on our “experienced” clients is to give the illusion that their skin is tighter, more lifted, more glowy, and just plain more better than when they came in to see you in the first place.
I think that this before and after really shows how the right makeup and hair can not only make someone look beautiful – but also can give the illusion that they are YEARS younger than they really are.
Your makeup and your brushes are your tools these tools are going to let you create the looks that you desire. I am going to break this look down into 4 separate areas so that it will be a little bit easier to understand.
Lets start with the foundation of the look – the skin. Look at the before picture and what do you see? I see that her skin is slightly uneven (ruddiness and a little sun damage) with wrinkles due to aging (fine and deep). I also see that she has some amazing bone structure, she has fabulous cheek bones and her eyes are in great shape. So how do we chance/correct? To cut the redness or ruddiness in the skin we need to use a more yellow based foundation – why you ask? Because, yellow cuts red (neutralizes) to create a more desirable skin shade. Also, I tend to not use overly matte foundation shades on mature skin – why? Because, matte makes the skin look dry and dry skin looks like old skin.
Let’s talk about those eyes. I know that her eyes are not what you will be typically running into, I got lucky what can I say. I want to focus on one aspect of the eyes – the eye lashes. If you look carefully in the photo you will see that I added some false eyelashes to her lash line – notice how it really began to push the eye up and give it a more lifted appearance? How did it do that? It did it because YOUR eyes are playing tricks on you. The lashes are creating a 45 degree angle on the eye space. This 45 degree angle is pushing your eyes to look up and out – just like what a “cat eye” does without the liquid liner traveling across your clients forehead. 😉
Remember how I was talking about 45 degree angles with the eyelashes? The same thing is true with the eyebrows. Notice in the before picture that you see her beautiful brow bone but no eyebrows, this is a problem. I chose a TAUPE brow pencil – not a grey pencil. Why? The taupe will be ashy enough to look close to the grey in her hair. I also added some bulk to the brow – a thicker brow gives the illusion of youth and it also pushes the viewer’s eye up giving lift.
I will be doing a step by step tutorial in the future to show how I like to see eyebrows.
I chose to use a coral color on her lips – why coral? Same reason why I chose to use a yellow based foundation color – yellow (or yellow based shades) counter-act red in the skin tone. Also – fun fact, coral shades on the cheeks, lips, and even eyes make the skin look more tan!
Let me know what you all think!
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